Franz Josef Glacier:Our TranzAlpine Train Journey

What to do in Franz Josef

In this final post about our time in New Zealand, I’m combining several destinations into one article, as they were all part of our TranzAlpine train adventure. If you’re visiting New Zealand and have enough time, taking a scenic train journey—through mountains or along the coastline—is something you shouldn’t miss.

That’s why, after arriving in Christchurch, we chose not to linger too long in the city. Instead, we boarded the TranzAlpine train, which took us on a stunning ride through Arthur’s Pass to Greymouth. Once there, we rented a car for a day and drove to Franz Josef Glacier—a destination we had missed earlier due to flooding (you can read more in our dedicated blog post).

But let’s rewind for a moment. First things first: how did we get to Christchurch?

How to Get to Christchurch

The drive from Lake Tekapo to Christchurch takes about 3 hours, but there are plenty of great places to stop and stretch your legs (and grab something delicious) along the way. Here are a few recommended spots:

Where to Stay in Christchurch

Christchurch is the largest city on the South Island and often serves as a gateway for international travelers, so you’ll find a wide range of accommodation options—from hotels to cozy Airbnbs.

We chose to stay in an Airbnb, which seemed like a great choice at first. While the apartment had everything we needed, we were a bit disappointed with the cleanliness. Still, it was a convenient and comfortable place to base ourselves for a short stay.

TranzAlpine Train

The TranzAlpine train connects Christchurch and Greymouth, taking you on a spectacular journey through the Southern Alps via Arthur’s Pass. It’s one of the most scenic train rides in the world, and well worth including in your New Zealand itinerary.

To book your tickets, visit the Rail New Zealand website. A round-trip ticket costs around NZD 478. After booking, you’ll receive a confirmation by email. However, you’ll only receive your physical tickets at the station, which means you won’t be able to choose your seats in advance. That said, during both of our rides, the staff at the ticket counter made sure we got seats on the more scenic side of the train—so don’t hesitate to ask!

Greymouth: What to do & where to stay

We left Christchurch early in the morning and began our scenic journey to Greymouth. Although the weather wasn’t on our side that day, the ride was still incredibly enjoyable—mountain views, winding rivers, and dramatic landscapes all around.

Once we arrived in Greymouth, we decided to spend the night in town. While there isn’t a whole lot to do in this small coastal city, our Airbnb turned out to be the highlight of the stop. Rather than a standard apartment, we stayed in a converted bus that had been transformed into a warm, cozy retreat—fully equipped with everything you need for a comfortable stay. The area around it was peaceful and quiet, and after several packed days of travel, it gave us the perfect chance to rest and recharge.

We genuinely enjoyed the experience so much that we’d consider the accommodation itself an attraction. If you’re curious, here’s the link: Stay in a Converted Bus on Airbnb

If you’re in Greymouth and looking for a good bite, here are a few local spots worth checking out:

  • Monteith’s Brewery
    Famous for its craft beer, Monteith’s also serves up some excellent dishes for both lunch and dinner. A great place to relax and enjoy hearty food with a local brew.
  • Sevenpenny
    A cozy spot for breakfast with a solid menu and good coffee—perfect for starting your day right.
  • Clocktower Café
    A small, laid-back café that’s ideal for grabbing a quick coffee while waiting for your train or just taking a short break.

Franz Josef: What to do & where to stay

After spending a night in Greymouth, we picked up a rental car near the train station and made our way to Franz Josef. The drive typically takes around two hours, but we decided to make a stop in Hokitika—and we’re so glad we did.

We had lunch at this lovely spot: Stella Café, then spent about an hour strolling through the charming town. Hokitika quickly won us over with its relaxed vibe, friendly locals, and scenic surroundings. Next time, we’ll definitely stay overnight—there’s so much more to explore in the area.

We only had time for a short hike to Hokitika Gorge, which is an easy 45-minute walk, but absolutely worth it. The turquoise river cutting through the lush gorge is stunning, and I highly recommend adding it to your itinerary.

Unfortunately, when we arrived in Franz Josef, the weather wasn’t in our favor—clouds and rain made any glacier hikes pretty pointless. So instead, we took it easy, spent a bit of time exploring the town, and decided to get an early start the next morning in hopes of better conditions.

We stayed the night at Rainforest Deluxe, which turned out to be our most expensive accommodation in New Zealand—but honestly, it was worth every cent. The lodge was beautiful, surrounded by lush greenery, and the on-site bar and restaurant were fantastic. We had a great dinner there and really enjoyed the atmosphere.

We got an early start the next morning and managed to fit in a few great activities before heading back to Greymouth to catch our train:

1. Franz Josef Glacier Walk

This easy 30-minute walk leads to a stunning viewpoint of Franz Josef Glacier. We were lucky to arrive early—there were hardly any other people on the trail. We even ran into some staff working in the area who shared interesting facts about the glacier, which made the experience even more memorable.

2. Lake Matheson Walk

Next, we drove to Lake Matheson for a short hike known for its reflective views of Fox Glacier and Mount Cook on clear days. The trail takes about an hour, and because we arrived early, we beat the crowds. Several tour buses started arriving just as we were finishing up.

3. Fox Glacier Viewpoint

Our final stop was the Fox Glacier Viewpoint, and it ended up being our favorite. The views from this spot are absolutely breathtaking—well worth the visit.

That wrapped up everything we were able to see in the Franz Josef and Fox Glacier area. Of course, there are plenty of other experiences to enjoy—like helicopter tours and glacier walks—but since this blog is focused on our personal journey, we’ve only included the things we actually did.

From there, it was time to head back to Greymouth to catch the train to Christchurch. And just like that, our month-long adventure in New Zealand came to an end.

Conclusion

After spending 33 days in New Zealand, I can confidently say it’s become one of my favorite places on Earth. And that’s not just because of its breathtaking landscapes, unique wildlife, and one-of-a-kind flora—what truly stood out to me were the people.

New Zealand is the first (and so far, only) country I’ve visited that, despite being shaped by European colonization, has managed to preserve and honor the culture, traditions, and way of life of its Indigenous people. I believe this was made possible by one simple yet powerful principle: respect. Respect for nature, for wildlife, and for the Māori people who lived on these islands long before European settlers arrived.

I hope more countries follow this example—embracing their roots, respecting their heritage, and creating a future where tradition and progress go hand in hand.

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