Jam Tsirani

My first trek in Nepal was the iconic Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek. While it was an unforgettable journey, EBC is well-documented, with plenty of guides and resources online. If you’re planning your first Himalayan trek, check out my First-Timer’s Guide to Hiking in the Himalayas for tips and advice. For this post, though, I’m sharing my second adventure—one that offers a unique and less crowded perspective on Nepal’s breathtaking landscapes.

For my second trek, I decided to explore the Annapurna region, beginning with the Poon Hill trek and continuing to the Mardi Himal trek from Ghandruk. The Annapurna region is a treasure trove of interconnected trails, making it easy to customize your adventure. If you have more time, you could even include other destinations like the Annapurna Base Camp trek.

With only seven days available, I opted to focus on these two incredible routes. And here’s how I combined them into one unforgettable itinerary.

DAY 1: Pokhara

If you’re planning to hike in Nepal’s Annapurna region, your journey will most likely start in the stunning city of Pokhara. I highly recommend spending a few days here before heading off on your trek. Pokhara has a completely different vibe from Kathmandu—it’s laid-back, tourist-friendly, and packed with things to explore.

The city has plenty to offer, even if you spend 3-4 days here. You can relax by the serene lakeside, sip coffee at charming cafes, or wander through bustling markets.

How to Get to Pokhara?

There are two main ways to travel from Kathmandu to Pokhara: by bus or by plane. The bus option is much cheaper, but be prepared for a long journey of around 8-9 hours (don’t believe anyone who says it takes only 6 hours!). Although the distance is just 210 km, the poor road quality and ongoing construction significantly slow things down.

We decided to fly with Buddha Air, and it was well worth it. Tickets cost me $106 USD round trip, and the flight itself takes just 25 minutes. However, be prepared for some waiting at the airport, as domestic flights in Nepal are often delayed.

Where to Stay in Pokhara?

Pokhara offers a wide range of accommodations, from budget-friendly hostels to luxurious hotels. I opted for a mid-range option called Hotel City Inn, and it was a great choice. The place was cozy, the staff (and the owner) were incredibly friendly, and there were plenty of great restaurants and cafes nearby.

The hotel is conveniently located right in front of the lake, and if the weather is clear, you can enjoy breathtaking views of the Annapurna range from the rooftop or even some of the rooms.

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Where to Eat in Pokhara?

Pokhara is packed with fantastic restaurants and cafes offering everything from traditional Nepali dishes to Western comfort food. I spent four days in the city, so I couldn’t try them all, but here are my top picks:

What to Do in Pokhara?

Pokhara offers a variety of activities for every type of traveler. Here’s what I managed to do during my visit:

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If you have more time, consider trying bungee jumping, rafting, or even an ultraflight adventure. Honestly, the Annapurna range looks so magical from Pokhara that you’ll never get tired of admiring the views!

Day 2: Bhirethanati to Ulleri

Our trek officially began on the second day, but you can’t start hiking directly from Pokhara. To reach the Poon Hill trail, you first need to drive to Bhirethanati. The drive takes about 1.5–2 hours, depending on where you choose to start your hike. You can begin at the bus stop, or you can ask your driver to take you further along the road, saving yourself about 30–40 minutes of walking.

That said, the hike on the first day isn’t overly long, so adding an extra 30 minutes won’t be too much of a challenge. However, don’t underestimate the route—it’s not an easy start. After the initial stretch of the trail, you’ll face a climb of 3,000 steps to reach Ulleri.

While the views on the first day weren’t particularly scenic, I can assure you the sheer number of stairs will keep you occupied!

We stayed at the Supervire Hotel in Ulleri, which was a pleasant surprise. My room had a private hot shower and toilet—a welcome luxury after a day of hiking. The staff was incredibly friendly and made our stay even better. The Wi-Fi connection in the teahouse was excellent, and I even managed to get some work done. Power outlets were readily available both in the dining area and in the rooms, which was super convenient.

Day 3: Ghorepani

On our third day, we continued our trek toward Ghorepani. The trail winds mostly through a forest, so there weren’t many scenic views along the way. However, that all changes once you reach the charming village of Ghorepani, our rest stop for the day.

This village is truly magical, offering a sneak peek of the breathtaking views you’ll experience the next morning at the Poon Hill viewpoint. Ghorepani reminded me of Namche Bazaar from the Everest Base Camp trek, but it’s much smaller and has fewer cafes and shops.

At an altitude of 2,900 meters, Ghorepani is a steady uphill trek from Ulleri. The distance isn’t too long—about 10 kilometers—and it took us around 3.5 hours to get there.

For our teahouse, we stayed at Tukuche Hotel, run by an incredibly friendly family. Some rooms have private toilets, though the hot shower is located outside. The meals were delicious, and the owners’ grandkids were absolute gems, adding a warm, homely touch to our stay.

The rooms have power outlets, and the Wi-Fi connection was surprisingly good. I even managed to make a few calls from the teahouse, and the connection quality was excellent.

Day 4: Poon Hill Viewpoint and Ghandruk

We started our day bright and early to catch the sunrise at the Poon Hill viewpoint. The walk from our teahouse to the top took around 40 minutes, although many people began their ascent much earlier.

The path to Poon Hill is mostly stairs again, but trust me, once you reach the summit, you’ll realize every step of the last two days was absolutely worth it.

Poon Hill is renowned as one of the most stunning viewpoints in the world—and it more than lives up to the hype. We were incredibly lucky with the weather, and the Annapurna range revealed itself in all its glory. Watching the sun rise over these majestic peaks was truly unforgettable—without a doubt, the most breathtaking sunrise of my life. Personally, I found the views from Poon Hill far superior to those from Kala Patthar in the Everest region.

There’s even a cozy tea house at the viewpoint where you can grab a warm cup of milk tea, which is perfect for combating the chilly wind at the top.

Heading Back and Onward to Ghandruk

After soaking in the breathtaking views at Poon Hill for about an hour, we made our way back to the tea house for a well-deserved breakfast—Tibetan bread with peanut butter. Honestly, what could be better after such an incredible start to the day?

After a short rest, we began our hike toward Ghandruk. Although the trek is mostly downhill, it still takes around 5–6 hours if you maintain a good pace. If that feels too long for one day, you can opt to stop at Tadapani, a charming village along the way. Tadapani is lovely, but Ghandruk is better developed, offering more activities and accommodations, making it an ideal spot to end the day.

In Ghandruk, we stayed at Samipya Hotel, which, unfortunately, turned out to be my least favorite stop during the hike. While the staff was friendly and welcoming, both nights of our stay were disrupted by late-night parties. As someone who starts their day early in the mountains, this felt out of place, to say the least. The noise from some western tourists was also quite inconsiderate, especially in a village where locals rise early to begin their day.

That being said, the village of Ghandruk itself is absolutely stunning, which is why we decided to stay an extra day to rest and soak in the beautiful surroundings. The views are incredible, and the charming village is perfect for wandering and taking in the picturesque scenery.

Ghandruk also offers a few small museums where you can learn about the lives of locals, as well as Buddhist and Hindu temples to visit. There are numerous viewpoints scattered around the village, making it an ideal spot for capturing amazing photos and truly appreciating the beauty of the Annapurna region.

Day 5: Rest Camp

The next leg of our journey took us toward Mardi Himal, with our goal for the day being Rest Camp. This stop isn’t the most popular choice after Ghandruk, as the hike typically takes around 8-9 hours, but we managed to reach it in about 6 hours.

The trek begins with a descent to the Modi Khola River, but don’t let that fool you—this is followed by the most challenging section of the day. From the river onward, it’s an uphill climb all the way to Rest Camp. Along the way, we made a much-needed stop in Landruk for a tea break and, of course, a few photos of the stunning scenery.

From Landruk to Rest Camp

From Landruk, we continued our climb up the steps toward Kyupche, where we stopped for lunch and a short break. If you’re passing through, I highly recommend the 260 View Hotel—whether for a meal or even an overnight stay. I had one of the best meals of the entire trip here, and the owners were incredibly welcoming.

After Kyupche, the ascent becomes less steep, and the endless steps finally ease up. The trail winds through dense jungles, offering a peaceful atmosphere as you make your way. Along the way, you’ll pass Forest Camp, another spot where you can spend the night. The camp is well-maintained and has plenty of lodges, but we decided to keep going since, as the name suggests, it’s situated in the forest—so no mountain views.

We pushed on to Rest Camp, where you’re rewarded with breathtaking views of Fish Tail Mountain (Machhapuchhre). Rest Camp has only two teahouses, so I strongly recommend reserving your spot a few days in advance or arriving early to secure a room. We stayed at the Rest Camp Hotel, and we saw several hikers turned away because they arrived late in the evening.

The facilities here are more basic compared to the lower-altitude teahouses. Charging points aren’t available in the rooms, and the toilets aren’t private, but the teahouse does offer hot showers, and the Wi-Fi connection was surprisingly good. It’s a cozy place to rest after a long day of trekking, and those mountain views are worth it!

Day 6: High Camp

The next morning, after a hearty breakfast and a stunning sunrise, we set off toward High Camp. We aimed to arrive early to secure a spot at one of the teahouses. The hike took us around three hours, and we chose to stay at Hotel Tiger Top.

High Camp has about 14 teahouses, so finding a place to stay is generally not an issue, though it can get crowded during peak trekking season. Once there, we noticed that High Camp doesn’t offer much in terms of activities, but I was glad to find the Wi-Fi working surprisingly well at our teahouse.

As in Rest Camp, amenities are basic at this altitude. There were no charging points in the rooms, and unfortunately, no hot showers at Hotel Tiger Top. Despite the limited facilities, the staff at Tiger Top truly impressed me with their incredible hospitality and hard work in such challenging conditions. Their warm service made our stay so much more enjoyable.

Day 7: Mardi Himal Base Camp and Siding

We woke up at 4:30 AM to catch the sunrise from the Mardi Himal Viewpoint. The viewpoint sits at an elevation of 4,200 meters, and the hike from High Camp involves a 650-meter ascent, which took us about an hour. There are a few teahouses at the viewpoint, making it a fantastic spot to enjoy the sunrise.

For those feeling adventurous, you can continue hiking for another hour to reach Mardi Himal Base Camp at 4,500 meters. The views from the base camp are quite similar to those at the viewpoint, which is likely why fewer people venture there. However, in my opinion, if the weather is clear, the trek to the base camp is absolutely worth it. The sense of achievement and the panoramic views of the surrounding peaks make it an unforgettable experience.

After spending some time at Mardi Himal Base Camp, we decided to head back to our hotel for breakfast. It’s extremely cold at the top, so staying there for an extended period isn’t really an option.

After breakfast, we began our descent to Siding, where we planned to spend the night. As I mentioned earlier, this itinerary may not suit everyone. If you prefer a more relaxed pace, you can break up the journey by spending a night at Low Camp before continuing down to Siding.

In Siding, we stayed at the Stone Gallery Inn, and it turned out to be one of the best accommodations of our entire trek. The rooms were spacious, complete with hot showers and charging outlets—both of which felt like luxuries after days at higher altitudes. To top it off, the dinner and breakfast were absolutely delicious, making our stay even more enjoyable.

Day 8: Return to Pokhara

From Siding, you have two options to get back to Pokhara: you can take a jeep directly from the village or hike for about two hours to the main road and grab a taxi from there. We opted for the second option, as the walk offers stunning views of rice paddies and charming nearby villages, which made for a lovely final trek.

The hike took us about 1.5 hours, and the taxi ride back to Pokhara took another two hours. It was the perfect way to wrap up our adventure, easing back into city life while soaking in the last of Nepal’s breathtaking scenery.